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The fusion of Chinese and Indian cuisines might seem a bit far-fetched, but this is the second such restaurant to open this year in Stamford alone.

The first was an Indian-based infusion of Chinese flavors and techniques. But Chinese Mirch, the newest to open in downtown Stamford, is most definitely a China-based menu with broad strokes of Indian flavors added.

In what is likely to become a mini-chain of restaurants, the first two locations are in Manhattan, where Chinese food can be had on every single street corner, it seems. So, to differentiate from the old standbys, Chinese Mirch (which loosely means “spicy Chinese food”) does indeed spicy up the classics. Kung pao chicken here has a lot more kick to its sauce, and chili chicken means a lot more and varied chilis than usually expected.

The restaurant explains that the fusion of Chinese cooking techniques and Indian herbs and spices is a centuries-old tradition in India. In America it is clearly a smart marketing tool, since many people are comfortable with Chinese food, but are still a bit wary and uneducated about seemingly exotic Indian dishes. The two cuisines can meld together well, but as with any successful fusion, the key is a creative and well-grounded chef. Here, many dishes show this talent, but a few need refinement.

Chinese Mirch has a broad, Chinese-based menu with Indian spices, peppers, and sauces added. The result is Chinese food that is hotter and spicier for the most part. Ingredient quality and preparation is first- rate, which more than compensates for some of the near misses in flavor complexity. On the real plus side is also a very affordable menu served by a most- attentive staff in a simple, yet sophisticated setting. Presentations are contemporary and most appealing.

Among the standouts here are light and crisp spring rolls filled with fresh, crisp vegetables and an array of dipping sauces, from fruity to peppery. Salt-and-pepper calamari are nicely fried and seasoned, but the breading is just a tad overwhelming, though the spicy sauce is terrific. Mirch 65, the signature house starter, is given three very hot stars, and lives up to its listing. Tender slivers of chicken are served in a searing curry and hot chili sauce. Note that this restaurant means

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